MERA PEAK CLIMB

Arrive at Kathmandu Airport. Upon arrival, met by representative and transferred to the hotel. At the hotel, the guests will be welcomed with a welcome drink and assigned to their rooms.

18:00 Hrs: A short briefing about the climb will be carried out at the hotel lobby. Later board the waiting vehicle and proceed for a welcome dinner at typical Nepali Restaurant

Overnight at the Hotel

Early morning, Meet the climbing guide and transfer to the airport to fly to Phaplu (2413m) This 45 minute flight provides a magnificent. Upon arrival, Board the waiting vehicle and drive to Khari Khola.

Upon Arrival at Khari Khola, meet the Sherpa team and while the team reassembles the equipment for the distribution to the Porters.

After the Things are settling down, the trek starts to Pangkongma. Good views of the old Everest expedition walk-in route from Jiri and the Dudh Kosi. You cross the Khari La, 3,081m/10,108ft, before descending through a spectacular rhododendron forest to Kharte, 2,683m/8,802ft. You now leave the main trail and begin contouring to the east. After lunch, you contour round the hillside through sessile oak forest for about an hour before a steady climb for three quarters of an hour up to the attractive farming and trading village of Pangkongma.

NOTE: DUE NOT REGULARLY FLIGHTS, ONE MIGH HAVE TO TAKE A DRIVE TO PHAPLU. IN SUCH EVENTS THE ITINERARY WILL BE MODIFIED.

Dinner and Overnight at Guest House

It is a short climb of about half an hour through rhododendron forest to reach the top of Pangkongma La, 3,178m/10,426ft. This is the watershed of the main tributaries of the great Dudh Kosi River and the entrance to the Hinku valley. The Hinku valley is filled with lush forests and a few pasture settlements. Snowy peaks top the opposite side of the valley and it is not long before we get our first view of Mera Peak in the distance. From the pass you make a steep descent for half an hour to the village of Sibuje, 2,770m/9,088ft. From Sinuje valley cross a suspension bridge and we see the most dramatic waterfall seen so far on the trek. Once across the river we ascend through deep forest to Narjing Dingma.

Dinner and Overnight at Guest House

The forest continues as we ascend to Surkie La 3,350m/10,991ft with views of the wild and remote Hongu valley open up as we follow the ridge north. The first section of the ridge is called “Raspberry Ridge” and here we can pick and eat the wild raspberries that reach grows wildly in October. You then continue climbing to the high point for the day at, before a steep descent back to the river for a lunch stop. After lunch you follow a roller coaster trail through stunning forest, including some quite steep sections. At the end of the day you cross the river on a remarkable bridge made from a huge tree trunk to reach Cholem Pati.

Dinner and Overnight at Guest House

The ascend continues up the ridge over cragged rocks and heather until we reach a higher altitude of 4330 meters. From here we descend to the mysterious lakes of Panch Pokhari. There are five lakes and they are considered a place of pilgrimage for Buddhists, who have lined the edges of the lakes with Chortens, and Hindus, who leave tridents, the symbol of Shiva the mountain-born god of destruction and re-birth. After leaving the lakes we descend a short distance to Khola Kharka.

Dinner and Overnight at Guest House

Today you are walking from one kharkha to another - a kharka translates to a high altitude grazing pasture for yaks and other animals. The trail today involves many ups and downs and you may be beginning to feel the altitude mildly.

We ascend slightly before continuing along the ridge and it is not long before we descend steeply to the phenomenal cascading junction of two mountain torrents, crashing down through tall pine forests all around. These totally un-spoilt forests become even more majestic as we rejoin the main river and continue up the west bank until we reach Khothe.

Kothe was devastated by a flood in 1998 when the Sabai Tcho glacial lake erupted through its moraine dam. The tea huts have now been rebuilt but the previously grassy field is now a sand bank. The final crest of the Mera ridge including the summit is clearly visible at the end of the valley.

Dinner and Overnight at Guest House

You begin trekking gradually uphill besides the Hinku Khola on a boulder-strewn path. The scenery changes today, from woodland to scrub and moraine as you climb to in excess of 4,000m/13,000ft. You will undoubtedly feel the altitude today as you ascend. You have superb views of Kyashar, 6,800m/22,309ft, and Kusum Karguru, 6,100m/20,013ft, at the head of the valley. After approximately 5 hours walking, you reach the settlement of Thangnang and its collection of huts and lodges.

Dinner and Overnight at Guest House

A return trek to Dig Kharka, 4,660m/15,288ft, provides a good acclimatization. You leave Thangnang and begin trekking along a boulder-strewn path. After about an hour's gradual climb, you begin a gently rising traverse, until you reach a flat piece of ground known as Dig Kharka. The walk takes about two and a half hours to ascend and one and a half hours to descend. You have a good view of your route up towards the base camp and partial views of Mera from Dig Kharka. The scenery today is spectacular as you are encircled amongst snow-capped giants.

Dinner and Overnight at Guest House

The mornings trek follows the Dig glacier and opens up into a beautiful valley with views north to the Hinku Nup glacier and south to one of the remaining unclimbed Himalayan peaks, romantically named peak 35. The ascent to Khare is gradual until the last few hundred meters where we are suddenly reminded that we are gaining altitude. There are a collection of huts and lodges here and good flat camping ground. You will have spectacular views, and can see your route climbing towards the ridge en route to the Mera La.

Overnight at Mera Lodge.

We recommend that you either trek up the ridge behind the campsite for an hour or so, or walk up towards Mera Base Camp. Your trek leader will advise on the possibilities. In the meantime, your climbing guide will demonstrate the rope & ice axe techniques and other climbing know-how.

Overnight: Overnight at Mera Lodge.

We return to the Hinku Nup Glacier today staying close under its northern flank where there are no crevasses. The last section is almost level and Mera La itself is a rounded snow col that bridges south to the main sweep of the Mera glacier coming down from the peak itself. The views that open out beyond as we pull clear of the northern flank are really fantastic; the Hongu valley opens out in front of us dominated by the massive south-west face of Chamlang. Makalu fills the gap to the north and has got to be one of the most amazing camp viewpoints in all of the Himalayas. Kangchenjunga is now visible to the east above the ridge of Chamlang where the ice spire of Baruntse has appeared to the left of Makalu. Between it and the beautiful twin peaks of Ama Dablam, which now rise above the lesser peaks in the foreground, we can see the whole of the great sweeping ridge line from Nuptse up to the forbidding mass of Lhotse’s south face running through to Lhotse Shar. Over the ridge stand the summit of Everest and the final stages of the traditional route up the south-east ridge and over the south summit to the summit ridge. Just to the right of Kang Teiga, which dominates the western foreground, we can see all the way up the Ngozumpa glacier past Gokyo to Cho Oyu, bringing our tally of 8,000 metre visible peaks to an unbelievable five. The sunsets and sunrises are amazing at this altitude and with some of the most dramatic and stunning scenery on the planet it is a once in a life time view. 

Overnight: Camp

We will be awakened in the early hours of the morning depriving of our warm sleeping bags and getting ready for the cold outside. This is always one of the most un-enjoyable moments of any mountaineering trip.

The Climb:

From the base camp we proceed towards a high camp at 5,800 meters (19,028ft), near a rocky outcrop on the Mera Glacier. From the Mera La wide snow slopes lead south and south- westward to a rock outcrop that makes the divide between the Mera and Naulekh Glaciers. This place provides an unforgettable panorama of Kanchenjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse towards the east while in the north the Everest.

Above, the central summit stands at the head of a wide glacier bay flanked by two ridges. Ascend towards the main bay over open snowfields but beware of hidden crevasses. The way then swings back south- east, skirting below and to the east of the left- hand ridge. The way now leads back south- west towards the main summit ridge of Mera. The route actually joins the ridge between what infact turns out to be two of the mountain’s three summits. All three are climbable without much difficulty.

The South Summit (6,065m/19,828ft) is the most accessible with the Northern Summit (6,476m/21,247ft) the highest which can be reached by skirting the Central Summit (6,461m/21,198ft) to the north and following a classic snow ridge to its top. The middle summit provides a slightly more technical ascent   Up steep snow with the possibility of a cornice to overcome on the north side, descend by the same route. Technically Mera North is straight- forward climb, little more than Glacier walking, albeit at relatively high altitude. The slope becomes steep for a section behind the ridge before we swing diagonally westward. The summit comes back into view and we are on the level summit ridge. At the foot of the final accent we attach to our only fixed rope on the route which safeguards this 30 meter 55º pitch. The snow conditions are normally excellent at this early hour and it is not long before we have reached the summit. The best viewpoints of the Himalayas are the chance combination of accessible height and location. Mera has this to such perfection. It stands at the center of the highest section of the entire range, a little bit back so the minor peaks do not obscure the major ones. A 360° view of the greatest peaks on earth. The exhilaration of reaching the summit; and the incredible location is impossible to describe to anyone who has not been at this point before. We spend as much time on the summit as we can before descending back to Khare. The decent does not take too long and we usually arrive back early to late afternoon. Weary as we may be the local brew starts to find its way into your glasses and the celebrations begin.

Overnight: Camp

We will always need to conditions and the weather conditions in the Himalayas, so an extra day maximizes our odds in case we should run into bad weather. If we have already made the summit, the day can be used to explore the surrounding area or can be used to spend some extra time in one of the Sherpa villages during our descent. Again it is up to the group to decide how the day should be spent.

Dinner and Overnight at High Camp  OR at Mera Lodge at Khare.

We descend slowly to Kothe which usually takes a full day. As there is no hurry now this is a great opportunity to take photos, drink a few beers or relax around an open fire in one of Khote’s many tea houses.

Dinner and Overnight at Guest House

You follow the Hinku Khola downstream for a short while before heading up to the right through rhododendron forest back up to Takthok - home to a solitary tea house. You can either have lunch here or continue upwards on the trail to Lukla for 1½ hours to a couple of huts. You continue weaving your way up the beautiful zigzag forest trail for a couple of hours before the path becomes narrow and precipitous, you then traverse around the hillside for half an hour or so. You eventually arrive at a col marked with a large chhyorden. An undulating path, on terrain not dissimilar to the Scottish Highlands, brings you to Thuli Kharka - a small hamlet comprising of a couple of tea houses, a few huts and plenty of good camping ground.

Dinner and Overnight at Guest House

Quite a long day today with a lot of descent. You ascend for an hour or so to the first col, marked by chhyordens, on a good trail. After this you traverse for about half an hour to the Zetra La pass 4,500m/14,764ft, marked by prayer flags, before a fairly steep descent brings you to a tea shop and a well-earned rest! Descending from the pass can be fairly treacherous when covered with snow if you are ill-prepared. Ensure you are carrying crampons and have an ice-axe if it is snow covered. Leaving the tea shop, you continue to descend for an hour or so through rhododendron forest until you reach your lunch spot. After this you continue through denuded forest and then cultivated farmland to reach Lukla.

Dinner and Overnight at Number Lodge.

After a hearty breakfast, walk up to the airport and later board the 25 minute flight back to Manthali. Upon arrival board the waiting vehicle and take a 4- 5 hrs drive to Kathmandu. The rest of the day is Free.

Overnight at the hotel Yak & Yeti        Flight Duration: 25 minutes & 4 hour drive.

Free for the activities around Kathmandu Valley.

This day is kept free to make our flight flexible if Weather does not permit for Lukla Kathmandu Flight then we can proceed in this day.

EVE: Farewell Dinner at the Rum Doodle Restaurant

Overnight at the hotel

You will be transferred to airport for your homebound flight