THE TSUM VALLEY TREK

This day is kept free for Permit processing day as we will collect Passport for the restricted area Permit.

Overnight at the Hotel

 Note: We will process for the Tsum valley permits, Larkye La (pass) and TIMS as they require Nepali Visa details.         

08:00 HRS: Drive from Kathmandu to Arughat Bazaar (570m) which takes approximately about 7 hours. Set out from Kathmandu on the Kathmandu-Pokhara “Prithivi Highway” till Dhading, cross the bridge and head to Arughat. From Arughat, continue further for about an hour on a very rough road to arrive at Soti Khola, a small village at the bank of Budhi Ghandaki river at an elevation of 710 meters However, with the new road extension, it is now possible to drive all the way to Maccha khola.

Upon arrival, meet Sherpa team and check into the Lodge.

Dinner and Overnight at the Lodge                                           Drive duration: approximately 7 ½ to 8 hrs

After crossing Machha River and Khorla besi, there is a hot spring called ”Tatopani”. From the hot spring the trail climbs over the ridge and then the trail follows forested area to arrive at Dovan (1000 m). Below Dovan, there is a huge rapid at Budhi Ghandaki River. Crossing a 93 meters long suspension bridge over the Yaru Khola and climbing some stone stairs you reach to Tharo Bhanjyang.

As the elevation increases, the rapids and the scenery undergo a complete transformation. Trek along the river for a while and climbing through small villages arrive at Jagat, a beautiful village with flag stone steps. At Jagat, there is a police check-post where your trekking permit will be checked.

Dinner and overnight at Lodge                                                    Trek Duration:  5 ½ to 6 hrs

Morning descend to Sirdibas (1430m; Setibas, Tara) where there is said to be a lodge. You’ll see your first signs of Buddhist culture here. Continue up-river on the left bank, up and down before crossing Nepal’s longest suspension bridge to the east bank and a tiring climb up to prosperous Philim (1590m; Dodang) surrounded by rich fields of maize, potato and millet. If you are not taking the Tsum Valley side-trip then today you will continue on to Ghap towards the Larkya-La. Traverse north out of Philim on the obvious track signposted to the Larkya-La, through some pretty forest with views up the narrowing valley. After 1hr climbing enter the increasingly misnamed Ekle Bhatti (1600m; ‘lone teashop’) with at least six bhatti, then traverse high above a spectacular gorge, entering a largely uninhabited area of pine trees. Eventually drop to a trail junction going left to Ghap and right to the Tsum Valley. Climb on a well-graded but exposed track through pines and rhododendrons, looking down on the other trail across the river. If the slopes here have recently had their annual burn there is a real risk of stone fall from the cliffs above, especially if there are goats grazing. Climb on zigzag steps, increasingly exposed, and gain your first glimpses of the narrow lower Tsum Valley, very steep across the Shiar Khola which drains from the very top of the valley. Across the Budhi Gandaki is Himalchuli (7893m) above steep cliffs. Walk through a largely intact and peaceful temperate forest into Lokpa (2240m; Lakuwa), surrounded by barley fields.

Dinner and overnight at the Lodge                                            Trek Duration: 5 ½ hrs to 6hrs

After Breakfast, descent and cross metal bridges over the intersecting Sukki Khola and Shiar Khola (questionable name). Once we reach river level we start to climb again, often steeply and on a somewhat exposed, switch back trail. The trails through the Tsum valley have been greatly improved over the past three years, so once precipitous and exposed trails are now safe and well maintained. We continue on this cliff-side, undulating trail for about an hour and then drop back down to a small tea-house at Ghumlung from where we cross the main Shiar Khola on a long suspension bridge.

The hill-top village of Ripchet comes into sight across the steep-sided valley as we climb again on a nicely graded switch back trail Chumling, a lovely village.Great Mountain views of Ganesh Himal (7422 m) can be seen from our dining tent, so enjoy if you don’t feel like exploring the village. There is a gompa in the northern (right) section of the village across the suspension bridge and Himalchuli (7893 m) rises down valley.

Dinner and overnight at the Lodge                                            Trek Duration: 5 ½ to 6 hrs

Venturing further into the Tsum valley, we have a lovely hike of 6 – 6 ½ hours in front of us today to reach Chhokangparo, a twin village which translates as roughly ’place of wisdom’. Just out we cross the suspension bridge and descend slightly as the valley opens ahead of us with green, fertile villages adding color to the already spectacular setting. We pass several small villages and the tiny Dhampa Gompa (2365m), worth a look inside and meeting the old ani (nun) who lives alone at the gompa. Inside are hundreds of ceramic statues of Chenrisig, the Buddha of Compassion, which line three of the walls. This is unique to the Tsum valley as far as I know and we’ll notice these walls of Chenrisigs in most of the Tsum Gompas. Descending once again to the small village of Rainjam where we’ll be welcomed by barking dogs, we take the left-hand trail up a bit, cross another suspension bridge and ascend to the small hamlet of Gho (2570m) where our friends next to the village tap might be weaving or spinning at their small house.

Passing the small shop, we continue to climb on a good trail for another few hours to reach Chhokangparo. This is my favorite village in the Tsum valley, a scenic and interesting village with friendly villagers and small lanes to explore. There’s a well-stocked shop in town and a local phone, and a home-stay sort of lodge owned by the same couple. The kids are eager to come and play so save some energy. There is lots of weaving happing in this village as in most others in Tsum and Manaslu, and perhaps an opportunity to purchase a hook rug or other textile if you’re interested. The intricate, colorful woven belts adorning most women’s Tibetan-style chubas are unique to the Tsum valley as well.

Dinner and overnight at the Lodge                                            Trek Duration: 6 ½ to 7hrs

Heading further north towards the border of Tibet, our destination for today is the somewhat remote Mu Gompa, the furthest settlement in the Tsum valley. Leaving Chhokangparo via the long mani walls, it’s an easy hike through the lower section of the village (Paro) and back up past a long mani wall to a chorten across from Chhogu Gompa and village. Continuing to climb gradually past green barley and potato fields, we pass a school and soon reach Nyakyu village (3225m). It’s mostly flat walking to the next village, Lamagaon, which is a similar style to the last with narrow alleyways between the houses. This is the open, predominantly flat section of the Tsum valley where one lovely village runs almost into the fields of the next village, the trails are peppered with mani walls and small chortens and the scenery is sublime. Just past Lamagaon (3220m) to the left are two small hermitages (Milarepa Piren Phu Cave & Chi Phu Gompa), and to the right across the river is the nunnery called Rachen Gompa.

We stay on the same side of the river, pass through Phurbe and Pangdum, both with small village gompas and between them an unusually shaped large chorten which dominates the skyline. Soon afterwards we pass through Chhule village (3250m) and then cross the bridge to reach Nile village. These are the last villages in the Tsum valley; Nyi Le means sun-side and Chu Le translates as water side.

Dinner and overnight at the Lodge                                            Trek Duration: 5 ½ to 6hrs

 NOTE: Most people can climb to 2800m without getting altitude sickness, but the altitude gain in these track notes above Chhokangparo exceeds the 200m per day suggested for safety. Watch for signs of altitude sickness and be prepared to rest or retreat if they emerge.

After Breakfast, continue on for another two hours, more strenuous than the Yesterday, to reach below Mu Gompa. This section is more desolate and more difficult as we’ll gain 400 meters in the next two hours at our highest spot in Tsum. The trail sticks to the left of the river, passing still more mani walls and chortens as it climbs and contours towards the north. After crossing an old ’slip’ and a small bridge over a glacial stream, we climb a bit more steeply past several larger chortens, with Mu Gompa just above us. After a chain of about five chortens we’ll round the corner and see two herder’s huts below the Gompa.

Upon arrival, Explore around MU GOMPA

One year we had snow all afternoon and evening so had a spectacular morning’s visit to Mu Gompa. The Gompa is Drukpa Kargyupa, affiliated with Kopan Gompa in Kathmandu, and filled with ancient, unrestored murals in the main lhakhang which has a very medieval atmosphere. The murals outside of the Gompa, with the usual four guardian Bonpo ’kings of the four directions’ at either side of the doorway. There are about 16 novice monks, or thawas, and another 5 or 6 mature monks and lamas residing at the Gompa, and the central temple is surrounded by the monk’s simple dwellings.

Dinner and overnight at the Lodge                                            Trek Duration: 2 ½ to 3 hrs

You will see a trail that leads north. This trail is used by many local people as they take caravans of yaks every two months to get the necessary food supplies for the monks at the monastery. The journey takes 6-7 days and crosses the high pass Ngula Dhojhyag (5093 m).

We don’t walk further north but instead hike to the base of Pika Himal (4865m) where views of glaciers, Tibetan peaks, the Ganesh Himal and other surrounding mountains can be seen. The area is home to fauna such as Blue sheep, Yaks, Naks, Chauris and the rare sighting of Pika. After the day’s excursion we return to Mu Gompa.

Dinner and overnight at the Lodge                                            Trek Duration: 4 ½ to 5 hrs

From Mu Gumba we take the trail to Rachen Gompa, a nunnery. The nunnery is situated in the Shiar Khola Valley in the foothills of the mountains bordering Nepal and Tibet.

Rachen Gompa was established in the year 1905 AD and is one of the largest nunneries in the Tsum valley. It houses nuns belonging to the Ningma-pa sect, which does not allow animal slaughter. The nunnery houses one thousand clay, molded statues of Avalokiteshwara, a brightly colored, carved throne and pillar, and a large prayer wheel. The interior is richly painted with murals about Buddhism and its history.

After enjoying and spending some time at the monastery, we again head back to Chhokangparo. The trail passes over a bridge and continues to trek on an undulating trail for a while on the east side bank of Bhudi Gandaki River. Then again cross over the river to arrive at a tiny village of Ngakyu Leru, descend gradually on the trail to finally arrive at the village of Chhokangparo.

Rest of the day at leisure

Dinner and overnight at the Lodge                                            Trek Duration: 5 ½ to 6 hrs

After breakfast, track back to the village of Lokpa. Upon arrival, check in to the Lodge and rest of the day is at leisure.

Dinner an Overnight at Lodge                                                     Trek Duration: 5 ½ to 6 hrs

After breakfast, track back to the village of Dobhan. Upon arrival, check in to the Lodge and rest of the day is at leisure.

 Dinner an Overnight at Lodge                                                    Trek Duration: 7 ½ to 8

After breakfast, track back to the village of Machha Khola.

Upon arrival at Machha Khola, Board the waiting vehicle and drive Machha Khola to Kathmandu.

 Upon arrival at Kathmandu, check into Hotel.

Dinner an Overnight at Hotel                                                     Drive Duration: 8 ½ to 9 hrs

Free for final minute packing & shopping until transfer to the Airport for Final Departure.