Kathmandu Valley
Kathmandu
The heart of Kathmandu proper still beats in Durbar Square (Palace Square).
Although it opens on to New Road, the center of Kathmandu’s electronics
and luxury goods import business, Durbar Square itself still conjures
up images of the divine royalty who once ruled the city.
Merchants of all shapes and sizes throng below its grand
monuments, and one can imagine a king emerging briefly to greet his
subjects. Hanuman Dhoka stands guard at the far end of the Square -
the ancient seat of Nepalese kings, it is a complex of temples and monuments
guarded by the veritable monkey god, Hanuman. It is still used for government
purposes today.
The temple of Kasthamandap, from which the city takes
its name, is a large pavilion with a multileveled-pagoda roof located
nearby. In addition to many other remarkable temples, the Square now
houses the National Museum, which provides a rich introduction to the
country’s history.
Nearby, you can visit the bustling market areas of Asan
Tol and Indra Chowk, where nearly everything imaginable is available,
from shiny glass beads and bangles to delicious curry spices to imported
jeans and shoes.
Patan
Heading south across the Bagmati river, one reaches Patan, or Lalitpur,
which literally means the “city of arts”. Maintaining an
exquisite array of temples and palaces, it is also home to many contemporary
Newar artisans who have followed in their ancestors’ footsteps,
continuing to make the gods come to life in the mediums of stone, metal,
and wood in which they work.
The city’s Newars practice a fascinating mix of Buddhism and
Hinduism, which is reflected in their unique artistic style. In the
Buddhist bahals of Kwa Bahal and Mahabouddha, thousands of intricately
carved tiny buddhas bring blessings to the city, while its inhabitants
visit these temples to spin prayer wheels and make donations to monks.
Nearby in Patan’s own Durbar Square, the elaborate Indian-style
Krishna Mandir carved of stone pays homage to one of Hinduism’s
most important deities. In front of the palace - a beautiful old structure
of wood and brick which has been recently renovated and now houses the
Patan Museum - devotees of both faiths stroll across the promenade bringing
offerings to their deities of choice. Small stone temples abound throughout
the back alleys of the city, dotted between artisan’s workshops
where you can purchase silver jewelery or stone statues.
Just out of the city center in Jawalakhel, Tibetan refugees produce
their famous richly woven carpets. An afternoon spent wandering through
this intriguing labyrinth of spiritual faith and artistic expertise
can be extremely rewarding.
Bhaktapur
About fifteen kilometers or a half hour’s ride away from Kathmandu
lies Bhaktapur, the “city of devotees”. With no cars inside
the city’s gates, a walk through its brick-paved alleyways and
broad squares transports you to another century. Impeccably restored
by a German-Nepali project, the temples of Durbar and Dattatreya Squares,
as well as Taumadhi Tole, are magnificent. Traditionally a center for
fine woodwork and pottery, the Potters’ Square is still in full
operation today, displaying fresh terracotta works every day. The finely
carved windows found all over the city, are exemplified by the famous
Peacock Window, and are a real pleasure to the eye.
Landmark Monuments
Boudhanath and Swayambhunath are important Buddhist monuments on the
outskirts of Kathmandu. To the northeast of the city center, Boudhanath
is one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world. Its painted Buddha
eyes are striking, as is the sound of bells and monks chanting as devotees
circle the monument spinning its hundreds of prayer wheels. The center
of the Tibetan community in the city, you can meet monks and pilgrims,
nuns and lamas from the farthest corners of the Tibetan cultural world,
many dressed in traditional attire. You can also visit grand monasteries
filled with golden Buddha statues, and observe the monks during their
daily prayer practices.
Located at the northwest corner of the city, Swayambhunath is smaller,
yet similar in appearance to Boudhanath. However, it has the distinction
of being the oldest stupa in the area - the story goes that the Bodhisattva
Manjushri arose on a lotus on top of Swayambhu hill and threw his thunderbolt
to create Chobar Gorge (to the south of the city) and drain the ancient
lake which once covered the entire Kathmandu Valley. Perched atop a
steep hill, Swayambhunath is surrounded by trees and greenery and makes
a perfect retreat from the busy city. One gains religious merit by climbing
the three hundred odd steps to reach the temple, and the views from
the top are a rich worldly reward.
For Hindus, Pashupatinath is one of the most important pilgrimage
sites in the world. Located just south of Boudhanath, it is the largest
Hindu temple complex in Nepal. You can wander through the surrounding
forests and come upon temple after stone-carved temple, many occupied
by Hindu ascetics known as sadhus, and others occupied only by monkeys!
This is also the site where Kathmandu’s Hindus cremate their dead
on the banks of the sacred Bagmati river which flows into the Ganges,
and cremation processions are a frequent site here.
These are just a few of the landmark monuments that make Kathmandu
a treat for the mind and soul, not to mention the hikes up hills like
Swayambhu to challenge the body! There are many, many more fascinating
sites to visit. A few days or a week spent in Kathmandu is a fascinating
journey through history, and a perfect way to begin or end your travels
in other parts of Nepal. |
