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Volkswagen Beetle’s
Epic Journey to Tibet

Kathmandu / Lhasa /
Everest Base Camp / Kathmandu
Duration: 20 nights / 21 days

Projected Month: May 2006
Proposed by: Classic Auto, Kathmandu, Nepal
 

<VW Beetle>

 

A brief history of the VW Beetle in Nepal and an historical opportunity

Aside from having the highest mountain in the world how many other countries can boast of having their first automobiles carried in on the backs of sturdy village men?

Volkswagen Beetles first appeared in Nepal when there was little road infrastructure in the country. After training some local mechanics in Beetle repair and maintenance a German businessman set up the first Volkswagen dealership in Kathmandu, the capital city, in 1963 with the first sales - to American Embassy staff - in 1964.

That dealership has long since disappeared but the number of Volkswagens in Nepal now number in the hundreds. Some are in almost mint condition while others languish in some by-gone era aristocratic family’s backyard garden, overgrown with creepers and shrubs and home to a multitude of insects and small animals. Many of the Beetles currently on the roads of Nepal have been salvaged from exactly this kind of fate – certain death for the vehicle - by nostalgic lovers of the car or simply by thrifty owners who saw a cheap way to acquire a reliable workhorse.

Until recently new parts were unheard of and parts availability was subject to finding trashed engines in said backyards and junkyards and doing the necessary swap – working piece from trashed engine for broken piece in running engine – or fabricating from scratch. But now, thanks to some enterprising local individuals with a love of the car who have set up contacts with distributors in the west, parts are steadily becoming more available in this remote Himalayan kingdom. Due in small measure to this and in considerable measure to the sheer perseverance and tenacity of the Beetle owners who have kept their cars roadworthy through thick and thin of the parts availability scene, the Beetle is enjoying a revival of sorts here.

So what better way to pay tribute to this phenomenal car and its presence in the Himalayas than to achieve a historical first and drive twenty of them from Kathmandu to Lhasa, capital city of the roof of the world, Tibet, and back to Kathmandu via the northern base camp of Mount Everest, passing through at least three five-thousand meters mountain passes.

Over a 3 week journey the cars – and the drivers - will be taken through their paces on these mountainous terrains. So along with the requisite spares, the cars will be accompanied by five mechanics –a ratio of one mechanic per four cars - in a separate support vehicle. And because of the altitudes, in between the driving there will be periods of acclimatization and rest for the drivers to avoid or minimize the effects of mountain sickness which can be life threatening if not treated early and promptly.

In the process of creating history the drivers will also get a chance to visit Buddhist monasteries steeped in their own history, see some breathtaking mountain vistas and experience a unique driving experience and the ultimate Fahrvergnügen as only one can, driving a Kraft Durch Freude Wagen / Der Käfer / Kübelwagen / La Coccinelle ( ladybird in France) / Maggiolino ( Maybug in Italy) / or, as it is known here, Bhyaguthay Gaari (frog-car) through some of the highest mountain passes in the world.

A cult car, the Beetle has stimulated people’s imaginations for more than half a century and this new journey will spark renewed interest in what is undoubtedly THE car of the century and establish it once and for all as the king of all cars.

 

Itinerary

Day 01
Kathmandu (1,300 m) to Kodari(1870 m)
Early morning 4 ½ hours scenic drive to Kodari (Nepal/Tibet Border) through the beautiful Nepalese countryside.

Day 02
Kodari-Zhangmu (2,200 m) to Nyalam (3900m)
(123 Km)
After breakfast, complete Nepali Immigration and drive across the friendship bridge. Meet the Tibetan guide and waiting vehicle and drive 8 kilometers to Zhangmu.

Zhangmu: Known to Nepali as Khasa, hangs on a cliff face, its boomtown architecture having a temporary look. Even the monastery roofs are sheathed in corrugated iron sheets. Here, we complete Chinese Immigration and customs formalities and then drive 40 kilometers (2 hours) to Nyalam situated at an altitude of 3900 m. Upon arrival, check into the Guest House.

Dinner and Overnight at the Guest House.

Day 03
Acclimatization day in Nyalam
This rest day is spent in acclimatization as well as for fueling. The mechanics will take thorough look over at the vehicles for the tough rides ahead.

Dinner and Overnight at the Guest House.

Day 04
Nyalam (3750m) TO Tingri (4250 m)
Drive to the highest plateau of the world with typical view of the Tibetan landscape offering sheer feeling of standing on the roof of the world crossing over Nyalam Pass (3,800m) and Lalung La (5,050m). Weather permitting breathtaking panorama of beautiful Himalayan ranges including Mt. Shishapangma(8,012m) but dwarfed by the vastness of the Tibetan plateau.

From the pass we descend through arid landscapes passing through upcoming roadside villages till our arrival at Tingri in about 5 / 6 hours time. Upon arrival, check into the Hotel / Guest house.

Dinner and Overnight at the Guest House.

Day 05
Tingri to Xegar (4350m) to Lhatse (3990 m)
Setting out from Tingri, we pass whitewashed huts in this pleasant valley making the ride an enjoyable one with magnificent views of the Himalayas. We arrive at Xegar in about 2 hours. Also called New Tingri, Xegar is surrounded by Mountains and is another town that lies in the shadow of a great fortress. Even in ruins, it is majestic. Seeming to grow out of the craggy brown rock, its sinuous wall bristles with watchtowers like stegosaurus spines. Isolated in 1855 by marauding Nepalese in search of booty, the Gurkhas cut off the dzong’s water supply and settled in for a long siege. Xegar proper has little to recommend it except the highest post office in China.

From here the trail ascends as we arrive at the Gyatso La pass at 5105 m strewn with prayer flags fluttering in the wind. The pass is marked by a big welcome gate and is the highest pass enroute to Lhasa.. From here we slowly descend to Lhatse a total driving time of about 4 hours from Xegar. Upon arrival, check into the Guest House.

Dinner and Overnight at the Guest House.

Day 06
Lhatse -Xigatse (3,900m)
From Lhatse, we join up with the other trail from Xegar and continue our scenic drive crossing over Tra La (3990 m) and Lagpa la. We pass through the village of Chemo about 57 kilometers from Xigatse. Upon arrival, check into the Hotel.

p.m. : Sightseeing to the Panchen Lama’s In Xigatse, visit the Tashilhunpo Monastery:

Founded in 1447 by Gendun Drup, the first Dalai Lama. It is the seat of the Panchen Lama who is second to the Dalai Lama in Tibetan Buddhist Hierarchy. The 5th Dalai Lama in declared that his teacher, then the Abbot of Tashilhunpo, who a manifestation of the Buddha Amitabha and the Panchen Rinpochhe. Tashilhunpo has one of the world’s largest status - a 9 storeyed gilded bronze statue of Maitriya, the future Buddha.

Dinner and Overnight at the Hotel

Day 07:
Xigatse to Gyantse (3,950m) 90 km
to Nagartse
After breakfast, set out on a 1 ½ hour drive to Gyangtse on a recently black topped road. It is a pastoral town between Lhasa and Xigatse located 264 km Southwest of Lhasa (8 hours drive). It still retains the charm of a traditional Tibetan town untouched by modern expansion. It made world headlines in 1904 when Colonel Young husband, who led British Expedition to Tibet, defeated the Tibetan army there. As a crossroad on the principle trade route to India, it used to be renowned for the excellence of its carpets.

The compound, encircled by an impressive wall, once contained 19 monasteries, presided over by the still intact fortress perched atop a nearby mountain. Here one visits the Kumbum Stupa and Pelkhor Chode Monastery.

Kumbum: It is one of the most unique and magnificent buildings in Tibet consisting of 6 storeys complete with a Buddhists Hall and a prayer hall. It has 112 chapels and its walls are adorned with religious paintings. Built in the 15the century, it has withstood all battles and revolutions since. The Pelkhor Chode Monastery: Located near the Khumbum, it was founded in the 15th century. It has been remarkably well preserved and many of the statues and paintings inside it date back to the time of its founding.

After the sightseeing tour and lunch, set out on the 3 drive to Nagartse Village situated at the foot of the Lake Yamdrok. The drive to Nagartse takes us over the Simi La (4200m) following the manmade lake and then cross the highest pass Karola (5,010m) enroute to Lhasa, After the steep ascent to the pass, we descend and proceed on a well maintained road till Nagartse Village.

Overnight at the Guest House.

Day 08
Nagartse to Lhasa (3,650m): 161 km.
Set our after an early breakfast on a picturesque and colourful drive along the Yamakrok Lake and the Tibetan lifeline river Brahmaputra (Yarlung Tsangpo). The Yamdrok Tso or Turquoise Lake is a glaring blue that radiates a near mystical charm. It is about 240 kms in circumference and is more like an Island sea. There are Yak herders around and the lake itself supports a population of scale less fish in its non saline waters. It is about 124 kms. from Lhasa.

Later we ascend steeply to the Kamba La pass at 4,794m, a vantage point with magnificent views of the Yamdrok Lake and the Tibetan Himalayas. From here descend down to Lhasa. The capital city of Tibet, at an altitude of 3650 m, is situated on the north bank of the Kyichu River in the province of U (central Tibet).

Two high craggy hills stand up in isolation from the valley floor. One, Red Hill, is topped by the Potala Palace and the other, Chockpori or Iron Hill, is crowned by a tall antenna.

Lhasa in Tibetan means "Place of the Gods" and Potala Palace " the residence of the Dalai Lama (the god king), is the earthly representation of the celestial Palace of Avaloketswora, the Buddha of infinite compassion whose incarnation in the human form is believed to be the Dalai Lama. As Tibet’s political, religious and cultural centre it is a city truly blessed by the gods, where life is unhurried, is people jovial and yet remaining staunchly independent.

Lhasa consists of two district parts consisting of different architecture, population and lifestyle. Old Lhasa, the Tibetan section, centres around the Jokhang Temple. Its streets are narrow, between white washed stone houses whose walls slope inward as they rise. Windows are framed in black trapezoids, with protruding fan shaped eaves above. Many houses have brightly painted woodwork. The Chinese section, was built in the last 30 years around the base of the Potala. It is characterized by straight, broad streets and utilitarian buildings that houses Chinese style department stores and all kinds of government houses. A Revolutionary Museum below the Potala displays the evidence of Chinese wrought economic and social change during the past 30 years.

In spite of it’s forced pace of modernization, Lhasa has not lost it’s soul. It is a friendly city where a Tibetan will always return a smile.

Dinner and Overnight at the hotel in Lhasa.

Day 09:
Lhasa
Sightseeing tour of Potala Palace: This legendary palace built atop a single hill is synonymous with Tibet. First foremost king, Songtsen Gompo, it was expanded to its present structure during the 17th century by the 5 th Dalai Lama. This 13 storey, 1000 room citadel served as the headquarters of the former "church-state" of Tibet and was home to successive Dalai Lama who, from the latter half of the 18th century, used it as their Winter Palace.

Also visit the Jokhang Temple: Situated in the heart of old Lhasa, it houses Tibet’s most precious religious relic, a golden Shankyamuni Buddha which was brought as a gift by the Chinese Princess Wen Cheng on the occasion of her wedding to the Tibetan King, Songtsen Gompo. Surrounding the Jokhang Temple is the bustling Barkhor market place, which is the religious and social focus of Lhasa. This, the spiritual centre of Tibet, is also the heart of Lhasa.

Dinner and Overnight at the Hotel in Lhasa.

Day 10
Lhasa
Full day sightseeing tour of Lhasa including the Norbulinka or The ‘Jewel Park’ as it is known in Tibetan. It was built in the 18th century and served as the Summer Palace of the Dalai Lamas. This colourful garden landscape was the site of picnic and public gatherings. The place is richly decorated, creating an atmosphere of peaceful repose.Sera Monastery: 5 kms (3 miles) north of Lhasa. Sera setting is one of Lhasa’s prettiest. Once a community of more than 5,000 monks, it was a virtually extinguished by the Chinese. The restored monastery sits below the brow of hill on which Tsongkhapa built a hermitage and spent several years meditating. One of the monks disciples began building Sera in 1419, completing it a few years later.

Dinner and Overnight at the Hotel in Lhasa.

Day 11
Free Day for optional activities in Lhasa
Dinner and Overnight at the Hotel.

Day 12 :
Lhasa to Tsedang
The drive from Lhasa to Zedang should take about 3 ½ hours. This drive is along the Yarlung Tsangpo river - fields of barley and wheat and apple and pear orchards are interspersed with stretches of rocky mountains and sands dunes. Enroute we stop at Nyethang, a temple built sometimes between 1045 and 1050 by Atisa, an Indian Buddhist teacher who was invited to Tibet by the Kings of Guge, western Tibet in 1042. Nyethang contains three temples - the first houses a large stupa called Namgye Chorten, and a smaller bronza stupa contains the relics of Atisa himself. The third temple is called Tshepame Lhakang, the temple of Amitayus. Atisa 'main disciple Dramton founded the Kadampa sect.

Visit the castle of Yambulakhang, the oldest known dwelling in Tibet and the home of Yarlung Kings. According to legend the castle is supposed to have been built by King Nyatri Tsenpo around 130 B.C.

We also visit Trandruk Monastery built by Songtsen Gompo in 7th century- it is one of his three main surviving monasteries, the others being Jokhag and Ramoche. This is a Gelugpa monastery. One of the chapels houses tapestry of Sakyamuni said to have been made by Wen Cheng, Songtsen Gampo's Chinese wife. The Padmasambhava temple contains a bean painted by Marpa (11th Century) but which probably date from the 16th century. The temple also houses a seed pearl tapestry of Avalokiteshwara.

Upon arrival, check into the Zedang Hotel.
Dinner and Overnight at the Zedang Hotel.

Day 13
Tsedang to Xigatse
Set out immediately on the road to Lhasa and then join the main friendship highway and head off for a long drive to Xigatse via the northern route. Though the distance is about 260 kilometers it takes a shorter time because of the better road condition. (Note : The drive could take us about 10 hours.) Upon arrival check into the Hotel.

Dinner and overnight at the Hotel

Day 14
Xigatse to Shakya
Start the scenic drive from Xigatse, which is the second largest town in Tibet and the capital of Tsang, lying 354km west of Lhasa at an altitude of 3810 m. crossing over two passes, Tso La, Yalung La. Arrive at the crossing about 10 kilometers before Lhatse and head off towards Shakya to visit the famous Sakya Monastery whichlies 143 km to the south-west of Xigatse. Sakya Monastery, the centre of the Sakya order of Tibetan Buddhism, was founded in 1073 by Konchok Gyalpo and during the rule of Sakyapas, the priest patron relationship between Tibet and China was established. Sakyapa rulers reigned over Tibet for nearly a hundred years from 13-14 th century. Many of its priceless images, fresco statues, holy scriptures remaining today date back to the time of its founding.

Upon arrival, check into the Hotel.
Dinner and Overnight at the Hotel.

Day 15
Shakya to Xegar
After breakfast set out to Lhatse and the head off towards the Gyatso La (5,220m) pass, the highest pass en-route to Lhasa. From the pass we descend down to Xegar, also called New Tingri. It is surrounded by Mountains and is another town that lies in the shadow of a great fortress. Even in ruins it is majestic. Seeming to grow out of the craggy brown rock, its sinuous wall bristles with watchtowers like stegosaurus spines. Isolated in 1855 by marauding Nepalese in search of booty, the Gurkhas cut off the dzong’s water supply and settled in for a long siege. Xegar proper has little to recommend it except the highest post office in China.

Overnight at the Qomolongma Hotel.

Day 16
Xegar to Rongbuk 100 km.
After purchasing the entry permits to the Everest region for people, and vehicles, drive to Rongbuk which is 100 kilometers from Xegar, crossing the Pangla Pass (5150m). Great views of Everest & Makalu from Pangla pass. The trail is a fairly new one but with the difficult monsoon season, work is always hampered by frequent land slides. Spend the night in the simple guest house having dormitory style accommodations that belongs to the Rongbuk Monastery. Rongbuk offers great views of Everest, look for the sunset and sunrise. Food supplies should be brought for the stay in Rongbuk. There is a small tea house run by the monastery. Bed sheets & sleeping bag is definitely required for the night.

Overnight at the Rongbuk Monastery Guest House.

Day 17:
Rongbuk (4950 m) / Everest Base Camp (5300 m) / Tingri
After breakfast, drive for a short distance to the Everest Base Camp (5300 m) which is only 8 kilometers (20 minutes) from Rongbuk Monastery. There are temporary tented shelters here a persons traveling on a normal permit cannot proceed beyond this point. However, for those interested to travel beyond must pay an additional US$ 200.00 per person at the check post here.

From the Base Camp settlement, climb a small ridge strewn with prayer flags for excellent views of Mt. Everest and the Tibetan Plateau. Later return to Rongbuk. After a hot cup of tea, board the vehicles for about 4 hours drive to Xegar on the highest plateau of the world with typical view of the Tibetan landscape which offers the sheer feeling of standing on the roof of the world. However, we continue further for another 1 ½ hours to Tingri.

(Note : There is an alternate shorter route via Nam la which brings us directly to Tingri but this route is possible only if road conditions are good and open for traffic. Commuting through this trail will save about 1 ½ hours of driving time.)

Upon arrival, check into the Lodge / Guest House

Overnight at the Guest House.

Day 18
Contingency Day (in case of delays)

Day 19
Tingri to Zhangmu
After breakfast, set out for Zhangmu crossing the Nyalam pass as well as the settlement of Nyalam. After having spent so much time in the high desert plateau, it is a welcome change to see all the greenery and waterfalls on our descent from Nyalam to Zhangmu.

Upon arrival, check into the Zhangmu Hotel.
Overnight at the hotel.

Day 20
Zhangmu / Kodari / Last Resort
After breakfast, complete border formalities and drive to the Friendship Bridge. Upon arrival, complete Nepalese Immigration and met by representatives from Nepal and drive to The last Resort for the final party.

Celebration party and Overnight at the Last resort.

Day 21
Last Resort to Kathmandu
Late wake up and for those wanting to participate in the Ultimate Bungy jump, there will be a fee of US$ 40.00 per person for the jump.

Later drive to Kathmandu (4 Hours)

End of Arrangements

Details for participation in November 2004.