Adventure seekers always find new ways to answer the call of the wild. As the song says, they ‘head out on the highway’. In search of extreme adventure, seven 640 cc and one 950 cc KTM Adventure motorcycles made in Austria embarked on their maiden commercial journey to Mount Kailash and the Everest Base Camp in Tibet on May 7, 2004. The trip was to last until 25 May.
Josef Pilcher, a veteran of the journey led the trip riding the newly launched 950 cc KTM Adventure. In accompaniment was his wife Renate, a keen photographer, she would be making the promotional photos and videos for KTM.
On a glorious morning of May 7 th, we set out from Kathmandu to Nagarkot and then on to Kodari on the 8 th. The bikers are greeted with bewilderment and awe at every stop. We quickly get accustomed to these huge gatherings. The ride through the lush green and beautiful Nepalese countryside is exhilarating. Crossing over to Zhangmu, we head off to Nyalam (3750 m). The riders’ skills are now being put to test, driving through uneven high altitude mountainous terrain for the first time. We were now above 3,500 m. and heading for higher ground.
From Nyalam, the ascent begins over the desert-like landscape and our climb to an altitude of 5,050 m. makes the journey disturbingly more hazardous. However, it is compensated by the magnificent views of Mount Shishapangma, Mount Gauri Shankar and others from the Lalun La pass at an altitude of 5,050 m. The riders brave the strong gusty wind to enjoy the serence magnificence of the high Tibetan desert plateau, the roof of the world.
As we leave the main trail and southwest, we pass small wayside settlements set up by sheep and yak herders, Occasionally, kiangs (Tibetan wild ass) and antelopes gallop through the vast expanse.
The Paikutso Lake (4,650 m.) is a beautiful sight of crystal clear blue waters with the reflection of mountains. Excitement runs high as we board our motorcycles, truck as well as the Land Cruiser on the ferry at Saga (4,300 m.) and cross the Brahmaputra River or the Yarlung Tsangpo (local name). This great river along with the Indus, the Sutlej, and the Karnali, all have their source in the Mount Kailash region.
From Saga we cross from one valley into another braving the dusty dirt track at a hundred kilometers per hour. Sometimes the passing vehicles raise so much dust that it becomes impossible to see anything ahead that we stop and wait for the dust to settle. We cross the Mayum-La pass at 5,200 m. and head off to Darchen with glimpses of holy Mount Kailash.
Mount Kailash (6,741 m.) or Khang Rimpoche (Jewel of The Snow) is the most sacred of holy mountains in Tibet and is considered the spiritual and physical center of the universe. It is a mountain of the highest significance not only for Buddhists and Hindus but also to the Jain and shamanistic Tibetan Bon Po religion.
Leaving behind Darchen, we head for the second most religious sight ninety kilometers beyond – to Lake Mansarovar (4,560 m.) the highest body of fresh water in the world. Enjoying a rare opportunity for luxury, we take a long warm soak in the Hot Spring bath-house and rid ourselves of the dust in our bodies.
From Lake Mansarovar we return to Saga and then head to Lhatse on the newly graveled highway crossing no less than seven passes that range between 4,450 and 5,220 meters. This is the green belt area of Tibet and we come across many farmers ploughing their fields with the help of yaks, bulls and horses. From Lhatse we head west and then turn north via the Gyatso La pass (5,200 m,) to Rongbuk Monastery and the North Base Camp of Mount Everest. The view of Mount Everest is magnificent and we are more than pleased to learn that it is the first clear day in about a week. The setting sun is beautiful and not even the strong wind and evening chill can take away the pleasures of this awesome spectacle. (Note: As per the new rule, vehicles are not permitted to travel beyond Rongbuk but should one want to visit the Everest Base Camp, there is a horse carriage shuttle service from Rongbuk at Yuan 30 per person.
We realize that our dream has been fulfilled as we rejoice and toast with Tibetan butter tea in celebration of a successful trip and prepare ourselves for the return journey to Kathmandu. The return is a joyous one full of excitement and a sense of achievement after having safely completed 2,500 kilometers in one of the harshest climatic conditions in the world, or as one participant put it, ‘the toughest enduro of the world.’
This trip was promoted by Siegfried Mayer and Kinley Tshering of Himalayan Adventures (Austria and Bhutan), and organized by Rabi Thapa and Palden Lama of Sacred Summits (P) Ltd., Kathmandu, Nepal.
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