The Royal Enfield 'Bullet' in all its obsolescence is
still manufactured in India with little change in the original 1949-55
design. Despite its primitive looks and very basic mechanical construction,
the charm of this bike lies in its low-tech gas-guzzling four-stroke
engine. Turn it on, and the air around you reverberates with a low frequency
rhythmic rumble. This is the classic heavy-bike-sound of the fifties
and sixties, no longer found in today’s hi-tech machines. At a
gross dry-weight of 165 kilograms (or more) with engines available either
in the 350 cc., or the 500 cc. mold, the Enfield is the only locally
manufactured touring bike readily available in South Asia.
In spite of its age, both in design and technology, it is heartening
to note today that the Royal Enfield Bullet motorbike has lived on to
become a cult machine with a broad fan base all over the world. To know
more about these bikes, log on to www.royalenfield.com |
Report
After a flag off in front of the Jawlakhel zoo, the motorcyclists
accompanied by the trek support team headed off to Kodari. There were
minor adjustments that were needed on some bikes but reached safely
to Bahrabise. Some opted for the packed lunch but majority wanted the
famous Nepali meal of Daal Bhat and curry.
After lunch, the trail got more difficult as the motorcycles had to
wade through overflowing causeways and cross wet and slippery landslip
areas thus delaying arrival at Kodari which unfortunately led to the
closure of the Chinese Immigration at Zhangmu and the group had to settle
for the night at Kodari itself.
The next day, after completion of the Nepal customs and Immigration
formalities, the group set out for Zhangmu but had a difficult and time
consuming experience to get through the traffic jam caused by a landslide
as well as the heavy trucks that were carrying goods to Kathmandu for
trade. A late arrival at Zhangmu and after customs and Immigration formalities
and a medical check up for SARS, the group set out on the friendship
highway on the windswept Himalayan plateau.
Suffering from the effects of high altitude, the magnificence of the
Tibetan plateau and the grandeur of the Himalayan range, the beauty
of the turquoise blue lakes and the simplicity of the Tibetan people,
the group thundered for 5 days across the plateau to arrive at Lhasa
–
“ Place of the Gods” located at an altitude of 3650 m, on
the north bank of the Kyichu River in the province of U (central Tibet).
Modernization has sown its roots in this Shangri-la. One can see new
gigantic constructions along the old religious relics and palaces. However,
The Potala still stands in all its majestic glory between the old and
the new face of Lhasa. The Jokhang and the Barkhor market place is still
the hub of religious fervour and trade.
After a restful 3 nights at the Dhood Ghu Hotel, the group set out
on the return leg of the journey to the Everest Base Camp via the Nothern
route. The main highway is longer but the riders make better time because
of the better road conditions. Having started late due to the last minute
photo sessions in front of the Potala palace, the group settles to camp
at a scenic location beside a small lake with loud cackles from a nearby
duck farm.
After 1 ½ hours of driving, we visit the famous Tashilumpo
Monastery of the Panchen Lama at Xigatse, the second largest city of
Tibet. The most striking feature was the gigantic statue of the Maitreya
Buddha. After lunch we set out for Xegar but spend the overnight at
a campsite in close proximity to the natural Hot Springs. It is open
to all for a payment of a nominal fee. However, the evening time is
crowded by the local villagers.
The road to Everest Base Camp bifurcates from Xegar. We purchase our
entry tickets for the Everest base camp and a 4 ½ hour drive
steep and winding descents brings us to Khatre with a few houses. We
take the right turning and head off to the Rongbuk Monastery which is
reached in 1 ½ hours from here. From the monastery area there
are awe inspiring views of Mt. Everest.
The excursion to the Mt. Everest base camp takes about 15 minutes
drive. It is a mere 7 kilometers from Rongbuk but sadly the views of
Mt. Everest is blocked by the tented huts and the small ridge right
in front. We climb this ridge adorned with prayer flags and arrive with
a view of the vast open landscape and magnificent views of the north
face of Mt. Everest. However our intention to stay longer was cut short
by the incessant fierce winds chilling us to the bone. We descend to
the tented town and return to spend a leisurely day at Camp in the Rongbuk
Monastery compound.
Note :Traveling beyond this point is prohibited unless joining an
expedition or one can obtain a day permit to trek to the Advance base
camp and back in a single day for a permit costing US$ 200.00 per person.
Having heard that the road to Tingri was passable, the group set out
on this perilous road having to wade through slush and cross small streams
on planks. The route offers an alternative to the main road like to
the Everest Base camp and also shortens the journey by about 2 hours
drive. (Note : The route is not well traveled and winds in and out of
the villages so if taken, a driver with a good knowledge of the route
is necessary otherwise a lot of valuable time will be take to find the
trail.)
The full day drive with the panorama of beautiful Himalayan ranges
including Mt. Everest (8,848m) was breathtaking but dwarfed by the vastness
of the Tibetan plateau. A view fit for a grand finale. After an exhausting
day, everyone unanimously agreed to spend a night at the Guest House
for the last night.
Early wake up and we set out to Zhangmu to complete Immigration and
Customs. Then drove down to Kodari. We bid sad farewells to our Tibetan
companions and crossed the friendship bridge into Nepal. Upon completion
of the Immigration and customs, we set out on the final leg of our journey
to Kathmandu with joy of accomplishment and reminiscence of a wonderful
Himalayan adventure.
Itinerary
Sept 16 : 2003
Kathmandu (1,300 m) – Zhangmu (2,500 m)
– Nyalam (3900m)
Distance - 168 km.
Sept 17 : 2003
Acclimatization day in Nyalam
Sept 18 : 2003
Nyalam to Xegar (4,350m)
Distance - 244 km.
Sept 19 : 2003
Xegar to Xigatse (3,900m)
Distance - 244 km.
Sept 20 : 2003
Xigatse to Gyantse (3,950m)
Distance - 90 km.
Sept 21: 2003
Gyantse to Lhasa (3,650m)
Distance - 261 km
Sept 22 : 2003
In Lhasa
Sept 23 : 2003
In Lhasa
Sept 24 : 2003
Lhasa to Xigatse
Distance - 280 km.
Sept 25 : 2003
Xigatse to Xegar (3,900m)
Distance - 244 km.
Sept 26: 2003
Xegar to Everest Base Camp
Distance - 100 km.
Sept 27 : 2003
Excursion around Everest Base Camp
Sept 28 : 2003
Everest base Camp to Xegar
Distance - 100 km.
Sept 29 : 2003
Xegar to Zhangmu (4,350m)
Sept 30 : 2003
China/Nepal Border Checkpoint
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